Quick answer: Comparing kitchen quotes in NZ means comparing specifications, not totals. Read what board, edging, hardware brand and benchtop each quote names, what it excludes, and whether the job crosses the $30,000 threshold that makes a written contract compulsory.
Three companies measure the same kitchen. Three quotes come back. The spread is $19,000 and every one of them says “custom kitchen, supply and install” at the top of the page.
That’s the moment most Auckland homeowners go quiet for a week. The cheapest one feels like a trap. The dearest one feels like a rip. There’s no obvious way to tell which is which, because the thing that makes the difference isn’t on the front page of any of them. It’s in the specification lines, the exclusions, and the payment terms, and two of the three quotes probably don’t have all of those written down.
We write these quotes every week out of our Rosedale factory, and we also get shown the other ones. Homeowners bring them in, spread them across the table, and ask the only sensible question there is: what’s the cheap one leaving out?
Sometimes the answer is nothing. Sometimes it’s the benchtop. More often it’s a stack of small things that each look reasonable on their own and add up to several thousand dollars of work that lands back on you after the deposit is paid.
So here’s how to read the documents in front of you. What a cabinetry quote should name, what it quietly leaves out, what New Zealand law puts on top of it whether the quote mentions it or not, and how to get three quotes onto the same footing so the comparison actually means something.
Why Comparing Kitchen Quotes In NZ Is Harder Than It Looks
A kitchen quote isn’t a price for a product. It’s a price for a scope of work that each company has defined for itself, using its own assumptions about what you want. Change any one of those assumptions and the number moves.
There are four levers doing most of the work, and they compound. Cabinetry is priced off the run, so linear metres of cabinets and the number of drawer banks set the base. Materials and finish sit on top. Hardware sits on top of that. And the benchtop is often the single largest line in the whole document, which is why it’s also the line most often left as an allowance rather than a price.
Linear metres and drawers, not floor area
Cabinet makers don’t price by the square metre of your kitchen floor. They price by what gets built. A 4.2 metre run of base cabinets with four drawer banks costs meaningfully more than the same 4.2 metres built as doors with a shelf behind each one, because a drawer is a box inside a box with a runner system carrying it.
This matters when you compare. If one company’s designer has drawn six drawer banks and another has drawn two, you aren’t looking at two prices for one kitchen. You’re looking at two different kitchens. Put the two plans side by side and count the drawer banks before you look at either total.
Where the money actually goes in an Auckland kitchen
Our own kitchen cabinet cost NZ guide breaks the ranges down in detail, and the pattern holds across almost every job we quote. Cabinetry carcasses and doors take the largest single share, benchtops are next and can swing hardest, hardware is smaller than people expect but has the biggest effect on how the kitchen feels in five years, and installation is the line most often underquoted.
Appliances usually sit outside the cabinetry quote entirely. So do plumbing, electrical, tiling, flooring and painting, unless the quote says otherwise in writing. That’s normal for a cabinetry manufacturer. It stops being normal when nobody tells you.
The lowest quote is a question, not an answer
A quote that comes in well under the others is telling you something. It might be telling you the company is between jobs and wants the work. It might be telling you they have priced 16mm board where the others priced 18mm, or an unbranded runner where the others named Blum. It might be telling you the benchtop is an allowance and the stone you chose is two price groups above it.
None of those are dishonest. All of them will cost you later if you don’t know about them now. Treat the cheapest quote as the one that most needs a specification conversation, not the one that needs the fastest decision.
💡 Design tip: Before you compare anything, send all three companies the same appliance list with model numbers. Appliance dimensions drive cabinet sizes, and a quote built around a 600mm oven can’t be compared to one built around a 900mm freestanding cooker.
What A Cabinetry Quote Should Actually Specify
Here’s the honest version of what most of the industry writes: “quality European hardware, soft close throughout”. It sounds like a specification. It’s not one. Nothing in that sentence can be checked, compared, or held to.
A real specification names things. Brands, thicknesses, product ranges, colour codes. If you can read a line and go and look the product up yourself, it’s a specification. If you can’t, it’s marketing sitting in the specification column.
Carcass board, thickness and edging
The carcass is the box. It’s the part you never see and never replace, so it’s the part worth being fussy about. A quote should name the board and the thickness, typically 16mm or 18mm melamine faced board, and it should say what the backs are, because thin backs are a common place to save money.
Edge tape is the other one. The tape on the front edge of a shelf or door is what stands between the board core and every splash in the room, and there is a real difference between a thin tape and a thicker ABS edge with a properly sealed glue line. We run German edge banding equipment for exactly that reason, and if you want the long version of how a cabinet actually gets built, we wrote up how custom kitchen cabinets are made from the factory floor.
Hardware, named and rated
Hardware is where a quote gets most easily vague and where the daily experience of the kitchen is decided. Ask for the brand and the system, not the adjective.
To show what a checkable specification looks like: Blum publishes that its LEGRABOX box system has dynamic carrying capacities of 40 kg or 70 kg, with drawer sides of 12.8 mm. Those are numbers you can look up, compare between quotes and hold someone to. A quote that says Blum LEGRABOX 70 kg is a specification. A quote that says soft close drawers is a hope.
Two cautions worth having. First, the load rating is the mechanism’s rating, not a promise about the cabinet it’s screwed into. Second, Blum’s own NZ product page for LEGRABOX doesn’t publish a cycle-count figure, so if a quote or a salesperson quotes you one, ask where it comes from before you weigh it.
Doors, finishes and the benchtop line
Door finishes should be named down to the range and colour, not described as “white gloss”. Thermoformed, laminated, acrylic and painted doors behave differently, cost differently and carry different warranties, and the comparison falls apart if one quote assumed one and another assumed something else.
The benchtop is the line to check hardest. Look for the material, the brand, the colour or price group, the thickness, and the edge profile. If the line says “stone benchtop allowance”, that’s a provisional sum, not a price, and it will be reconciled against the real cost later. An allowance isn’t wrong. An allowance you didn’t notice is how a quote grows by $4,000 in week six.
A quick way to score a specification
| Quote line | Vague version | Checkable version |
|---|---|---|
| Carcass | Quality melamine board | 18mm melamine faced board, named brand and colour, 18mm backs |
| Edging | Edged throughout | ABS edge tape, thickness stated, machine applied |
| Drawers | Soft close drawers | Blum LEGRABOX, 40 kg or 70 kg rating stated per drawer type |
| Doors | White gloss doors | Named range, named colour, substrate and finish type |
| Benchtop | Stone benchtop allowance | Brand, colour, price group, thickness, edge profile, splashback treatment |
| Installation | Install included | Days on site, scribing, toe kicks, handles, return visits, who removes rubbish |
💡 Design tip: Ask each company to email you the specification as a separate document from the price. The ones who can do it in an hour are the ones who already work that way.
The Legal Layer Most Kitchen Quote Guides Leave Out
Every quote-comparison page you’ll read tells you to get it in writing. Almost none of them tell you that for a job of a certain size, New Zealand law already requires it, sets out what has to be in it, and gives you protections that apply even if the paperwork is a mess.
This is the part worth reading twice, because it doesn’t depend on which company you choose.
One qualifier before the detail. These rules attach to residential building work, and whether a particular cabinetry contract counts depends on what the job actually involves, so a straight supply of a few cabinets sits differently from a full kitchen strip-out and fit-out inside a larger project. If you’re not sure which side of the line yours falls on, ask the contractor to put their view in writing and check it against the guidance on building.govt.nz.
The $30,000 threshold
MBIE’s Building Performance guidance is direct about it: “If you’re a homeowner doing residential building work that will cost $30,000 or more (including GST), you must have a written contract with your building contractor.” Plenty of Auckland kitchens land above that line, so this isn’t an edge case.
The same guidance sets out what that contract has to cover, and the list is longer than most people expect. Names and addresses of both parties, the site, the dates each party signed, the start and completion dates and what happens if they slip, the contract price or the method by which it will be calculated, the scope including materials and products, who is responsible for consents and approvals, who is doing and supervising the work, how notices are given, the payment and invoicing arrangements, the process for fixing defects with reference to the implied warranties, how disputes get resolved, how variations get agreed before work continues, and an acknowledgement that you received the consumer protection checklist and disclosure statement.
If you have an oral or incomplete contract, MBIE notes that implied contract terms exist to protect you where the value of residential building work reaches that threshold. You aren’t left with nothing. You’re just left arguing about what was agreed, which is a worse place to stand.
The disclosure statement and the checklist
Before you sign, the contractor has to hand over two documents if the work will cost $30,000 or more including GST, or any time you ask for them. The disclosure statement covers who the business is, how long it has existed, who the key contact is and what their qualifications and experience are, what insurance is held, and what guarantees or warranties are offered.
Ask for both from every company you’re considering, even the ones under the threshold. It costs you one email and it tells you a great deal. And note what sits behind it: MBIE states that anyone who “knowingly provides false or misleading information, or who knowingly leaves out information, is liable on conviction to a fine of up to $50,000 if they’re an individual and $150,000 for organisations.” Those documents aren’t a formality.
Implied warranties and the 12 month defect repair period
Two protections run underneath every residential job, regardless of what any quote says.
The first is the implied warranties. MBIE is explicit: “All residential building work is covered by implied warranties”, and they apply whether or not you have a contract. They cover work being done properly and competently and to the approved plans, materials being suitable and new unless the contract says otherwise, compliance with the Building Act and the Building Code, reasonable care and skill, and completion within a reasonable time. One caveat worth knowing in advance: to activate them, MBIE says you must take the dispute to court and prove loss or damage, so they’re a backstop rather than a hotline.
The second is nearer to hand. As MBIE puts it, “As well as the implied warranties, there is a 12-month defect repair period”, and if defects emerge within 12 months of the completed build date the contractor has an obligation to fix them. Put your complaint in writing and date it. That’s the whole trick.
“The homeowners who get looked after best are not the ones who chase hardest. They are the ones who put it in an email. A dated written note of a problem is worth more than five phone calls, and any company that does good work will tell you the same thing.”
— Little Giant Interiors Design Team
Consumer law sits on top of all of it
Your cabinetry is goods and the installation is a service, which puts both under the Consumer Guarantees Act. Consumer Protection’s guidance is that products must be of acceptable quality, meaning “they must do what they are made to do, look acceptable, not have defects, be safe, and last a reasonable time”, and that services must be performed with reasonable care and skill, “meaning it should meet the standard of a competent person with average skills and experience”.
The line that matters most when someone waves a warranty card at you: businesses “cannot limit their obligations to the terms of a store or manufacturer’s warranty”. A supplier warranty is something you get on top of your rights, not instead of them.
The trades that have to be certified
A new kitchen usually needs an electrician and often a plumber, and both are regulated. WorkSafe’s guidance for homeowners is that “any person other than a homeowner who carries out prescribed electrical work is required to be registered by the Electrical Workers Registration Board”, and that when you hire an electrician you should make sure they’re licensed and issue a Certificate of Compliance for their work. WorkSafe also notes that a CoC isn’t issued for maintenance work such as replacing sockets and light fittings, so know which one you’re getting.
Plumbing, gasfitting and drainlaying are restricted work overseen by the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board, which runs a public register you can search before anyone starts. Two minutes, no cost.
Important note: Whether your particular job needs a building consent depends on what’s being altered, not on the size of the cabinetry. Moving a wall, altering drainage or changing the structure can all change the answer. Take that question to Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner rather than to a salesperson, and get the answer before you sign anything.
Read The Warranty Schedule, Not The Warranty Headline
“Lifetime warranty” is printed on a lot of kitchen marketing. It’s usually true and usually misunderstood. It almost always belongs to a hardware manufacturer, it covers the mechanism, and it has nothing to do with whether the cabinet was installed properly.
A kitchen isn’t covered by one warranty. It’s covered by a stack of them, each issued by a different party with a different term.
Three different kinds of cover
Product warranties come from the material and hardware manufacturers and cover the product itself against defined failure. Installation warranties come from the company that fitted your kitchen and cover the workmanship. Your consumer law rights sit under both and can’t be signed away.
When a quote says “warranty included”, ask which of the three it means. If the answer is the first one only, the company is passing on somebody else’s promise and keeping none of its own.
What a published schedule looks like
Ours is on our guarantee page, written out product by product: Laminex 10 years, Melteca laminates 7 years, PrimePanels laminates 7 years, Bestwood laminates 5 years, Caesarstone 10 years, Blum hardware lifetime, Hettich hardware lifetime, Blanco sinks lifetime, installation 5 years, electrical workmanship 12 months.
That schedule is the useful comparison, not the headline number. It shows which parties are standing behind which parts, and it lets you check a claim against the manufacturer’s own documents. One more detail worth knowing when you’re weighing up a kitchen you might not live with forever: our guarantee is transferable to the new owners if you sell the house.
💡 Design tip: Ask every company for its warranty schedule as a document before you sign. If it exists in writing you can compare it. If it only exists as a sentence in a conversation, you can’t.
Warranties have conditions, and the conditions are on you
Every supplier warranty comes with care requirements and exclusions, and using the wrong cleaner on the wrong surface is enough to end the cover. That’s a whole subject of its own, and we’ve written up which products the NZ suppliers ban by name in our guide to kitchen cabinet care NZ. Worth reading before handover rather than after.
The Exclusions That Turn A Cheap Quote Into An Expensive Kitchen
This is where the $19,000 spread usually lives. Not in the cabinets. In the list of things that have to happen for the cabinets to end up working in your house, and which quote takes responsibility for them.
The usual suspects
Go through each quote with this list and mark every line as included, excluded or not mentioned. Not mentioned is the dangerous column.
| Item | Why it gets left out |
|---|---|
| Removing and disposing of the old kitchen | Skip hire and labour, easy to assume the homeowner will handle it |
| Plumbing disconnect and reconnect | Regulated trade, usually subcontracted or left to you to arrange |
| Electrical, new circuits and the Certificate of Compliance | Same reason, and new appliances often need new circuits |
| Splashback supply and fitting | Sits between the cabinetry maker, the stone supplier and the tiler |
| Benchtop template, fabrication and install | Often a separate supplier, sometimes an allowance rather than a price |
| Handles and knobs | Frequently a supply allowance chosen late in the process |
| Appliance installation | Cabinetry companies fit the cabinetry, not always the appliances |
| Return trip to fit toe kicks after flooring | A second visit costs money, and the sequencing depends on your flooring |
| Scribing and packing to out of square walls | Unknown until the old kitchen comes off the wall |
| Making good and painting after install | Almost always a painter’s job, almost never in the cabinetry price |
| GST | Check every quote states whether the total includes it. A 15% difference isn’t a discount. |
Who measures the room, and when
There’s a difference between a quote priced off a designer’s sketch and a quote priced off a check measure, and it’s the difference between an estimate and a commitment.
Most companies design and price from an initial measure taken with your old kitchen still in place. That’s normal, because nobody is pulling a working kitchen apart to win a quote. What varies is what happens next. A careful process does a final check measure once the old kitchen is out and the walls are visible, then manufactures to those numbers. A less careful one manufactures off the original figures and packs out the difference on install day.
Ask each company two things: who does the final measure, and what happens to the price if the room isn’t what the drawing assumed. If a quote has no site visit behind it at all, the number is an opinion. This matters most in older homes, where a wall can be out by 20mm over a three metre run and there is no way to know until the gib is exposed.
The Auckland housing stock adds its own line items
Where you live changes what the install involves, and a quote written without a site visit can’t know it.
Villas and bungalows in Ponsonby, Grey Lynn and Mt Eden have settled. Walls are rarely square and floors are rarely level, so cabinetry has to be scribed and packed, which is time on site. The 1970s and 80s brick and tile homes through Pakuranga and Howick are usually more predictable but often have a small original kitchen footprint, so the design work is where the effort goes. Apartments in the central city and Takapuna bring their own set: lift bookings, loading zones, working hours set by the body corporate, and sometimes a restriction on when noisy work can happen at all. If you’re in one, ask for those rules in writing before the quotes go out, because an installer who finds out on the day will charge for the day.
Character-home kitchens have their own design constraints too, and the trade-offs between a modular approach and a made to measure one show up fastest in exactly those rooms. We compared the two properly in modular versus custom kitchens.
💡 Design tip: If your kitchen sits inside a larger project with walls coming out or a room being reconfigured, get the builder and the cabinetry maker talking before either quote is finalised. Our sister company Superior Renovations handles that whole-of-room side, and the sequencing conversation is a lot cheaper than the rework.
Deposits, Progress Payments And Variations
The price is only half the commercial deal. The other half is when money moves and what happens when something changes, and that’s the half people skim.
What a payment schedule should look like
Custom cabinetry is made for you and can’t be resold, so a deposit is normal and reasonable. What you’re looking for is that the deposit is proportionate, that the stages are tied to something real, and that the schedule is written down. Deposit on acceptance, a payment when manufacture starts or materials are ordered, and a final payment on completion is a common and sensible shape.
Be careful of two things. A very large deposit shifts most of the risk onto you before anything is built. And a schedule with no final payment held back until completion removes your only real lever at exactly the point you might need it. Keeping a meaningful final payment until the job is finished and signed off is the single most useful term in the whole document.
Fixed price, allowances and provisional sums
A fixed price for a defined scope isn’t the same as a fixed final cost, and the difference is the allowances sitting inside it. If the benchtop, handles or appliances are allowances, the price is fixed everywhere except the places most likely to move.
Ask each company to list every allowance in the quote with the assumed value. It’s a fair question and a fast one to answer. Any quote where the answer is “there aren’t really any” while the document says “stone allowance” is answering a different question.
Variations, in writing, before the work happens
MBIE’s required contract terms include a process for agreeing variations before work continues, and that’s the rule to hold everyone to, including yourself. Changes are normal in a kitchen. Changes agreed verbally on site at four in the afternoon are how disputes start.
One line in an email confirming what changed and what it costs, sent before the change is made, resolves almost every argument that would otherwise happen later.
💡 Design tip: If cash flow is what’s pushing you toward the cheapest quote, look at the payment structure before you compromise the specification. We publish our finance options, and a better kitchen paid over time usually beats a cheaper one paid at once.
How To Compare Kitchen Quotes Line By Line
Now the practical part. You have three documents, and the goal is to get them onto one footing so the totals mean the same thing.
Normalise before you compare
Work through them in this order.
- Count the cabinets and drawer banks in each design. If they differ, the quotes are for different kitchens.
- Write down the named specification for carcass, edging, doors, hardware and benchtop on each. Blanks are questions to ask, not points to deduct.
- Mark every exclusion line as included, excluded or not mentioned.
- Add the excluded items back in at a realistic figure so every quote covers the same finished kitchen.
- Check GST treatment is the same across all three.
- Compare payment schedules and the size of the final payment.
- Compare warranty schedules product by product, not headline by headline.
By step four the spread usually narrows a long way. Sometimes it inverts.
Questions worth asking every company
Ask all three the same questions and compare the answers, not just the numbers.
- Who manufactures the cabinetry, and where?
- Are the installers your own team or subcontracted, and who supervises them?
- What board, edge tape, hardware brand and benchtop are in this price?
- What is in this quote as an allowance rather than a firm price?
- Which trades am I responsible for arranging?
- How many days are you on site, and does the price include a return visit for toe kicks?
- What is your written warranty on the installation itself?
- How do variations get agreed and priced?
- Can I have your disclosure statement and the consumer protection checklist?
Question one matters more than it looks. A company that manufactures what it sells can change a cabinet size because your fridge changed, and it owns the outcome when something is out by 3mm. A company that on-sells someone else’s boxes is a messenger. Ours are made in our own Rosedale factory, quoted, built and installed by the same company, which is the short answer to why our process runs the way it does.
Red flags
A quote with no specification detail at all. Pressure to sign today for a price that expires tomorrow. A deposit above what the materials could plausibly cost. No written warranty on workmanship. Reluctance to provide the disclosure statement. A refusal to put the scope in writing because “we’ll sort it on site”. Any one of those is a conversation. Two of them together is an answer.
💡 Design tip: Ask to see a kitchen the company installed two or three years ago, not one finished last week. Everything looks good in week one. Hardware, edge tape and hinge adjustment are what show up in year three.
What happens after you choose
Once you’ve picked, the paperwork matters more than the pitch did. Get the specification attached to the contract rather than referred to. Get the payment schedule, the variation process and the defect process in the same document. Keep every email. Our own sequence from first measure through to handover is set out on our working process page, and any company worth hiring will be able to show you theirs.
The kitchen you end up living with is decided in the specification, not the sales meeting. Read the boring pages. They are the ones that come true.
➡ Book your free in-home design consultation with Little Giant Interiors
➡ See our 6-step design and build process
➡ Learn more about our custom kitchens in Auckland
How do I compare kitchen quotes in NZ fairly?
Compare specifications before totals. Count the cabinets and drawer banks in each design, write down the named board, edge tape, hardware brand and benchtop in each quote, then mark every exclusion as included, excluded or not mentioned. Add the excluded work back in at a realistic figure so all three quotes cover the same finished kitchen, check GST is treated the same way, then compare payment schedules and warranty schedules. The gap usually narrows sharply once the scopes match.
Why are kitchen quotes so different for the same kitchen?
Because each company defines the scope itself. Four things move the number most: linear metres of cabinetry and the number of drawer banks, the board and finish specified, the hardware brand and grade, and the benchtop material. On top of that sit the exclusions. Removal of the old kitchen, plumbing, electrical, splashback, appliance installation and a return trip for toe kicks are all commonly outside a cabinetry price, and a quote that leaves several of them out will look cheaper than one that does not.
Do I need a written contract for a kitchen renovation in New Zealand?
MBIE states that if you are a homeowner doing residential building work that will cost 30,000 dollars or more including GST, you must have a written contract with your building contractor. Many Auckland kitchens sit above that figure. The contract has to cover the price or how it is calculated, the scope, start and completion dates, payment terms, the defect process, dispute resolution and how variations are agreed, among other required terms. Full detail is on building.govt.nz.
What is a disclosure statement and do I need one?
It is a document your contractor must give you before you sign if the work will cost 30,000 dollars or more including GST, or any time you ask for it. It covers who the business is, when it was formed, who the key contact is and their qualifications and experience, what insurance is held, and what guarantees or warranties are offered. It comes with a consumer protection standard checklist. Ask every company you are considering for both, even below the threshold.
What is the 12 month defect repair period?
MBIE states that as well as the implied warranties there is a 12 month defect repair period, and if defects in the building work emerge within 12 months of the completed build date your contractor has an obligation to fix them. Report any problem in writing and date it. After that period the implied warranties still apply, but the practical burden of showing there is a defect shifts to you, so the first year is the cheapest time to raise anything.
Does a supplier warranty replace my consumer rights?
No. Consumer Protection guidance is that businesses cannot limit their obligations to the terms of a store or manufacturer warranty. Under the Consumer Guarantees Act, goods must be of acceptable quality and services must be carried out with reasonable care and skill. A supplier warranty sits on top of those rights rather than in place of them, so read it as an extra rather than as the limit of what you are owed.
What should a kitchen quote specify about hardware?
The brand and the system, not an adjective. Soft close throughout is not a specification because nothing in it can be checked. Blum publishes that its LEGRABOX box system has dynamic carrying capacities of 40 kg or 70 kg with 12.8 mm drawer sides, and a figure like that can be compared between quotes and held to. If a quote names no hardware brand, ask for it in writing before you compare prices.
What is a provisional sum or allowance in a kitchen quote?
It is a placeholder figure for something not yet chosen or priced, most often the benchtop, the handles or the appliances. The rest of the quote can be fixed while those lines still move, so a fixed price is not the same as a fixed final cost. Ask each company to list every allowance in the quote with the value assumed, then compare like with like. An allowance you did not notice is the most common reason a kitchen price grows mid project.
How much deposit is normal for custom kitchen cabinetry in NZ?
Custom cabinetry is made to your measurements and cannot be resold, so a deposit is standard practice. What matters more than the exact figure is that it is proportionate to the materials being ordered, that later payments are tied to real stages such as manufacture starting and installation finishing, and that a meaningful final payment is held back until the job is complete and signed off. Get the whole schedule in the contract rather than in an email.
Who is allowed to do the plumbing and electrical work in a new kitchen?
Both are regulated trades. WorkSafe states that any person other than a homeowner carrying out prescribed electrical work must be registered with the Electrical Workers Registration Board, and that you should make sure your electrician is licensed and issues a Certificate of Compliance for the work. Plumbing, gasfitting and drainlaying are overseen by the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board, which runs a public register you can search before work starts.
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References
- MBIE Building Performance — Contracts for your building project
- MBIE Building Performance — Consumer protection, disclosure statement and standard checklist
- MBIE Building Performance — Implied warranties and defects
- Consumer Protection New Zealand — Consumer Guarantees Act
- WorkSafe New Zealand — Getting electrical work done
- Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board — Public register
- Blum New Zealand — LEGRABOX box system
