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Quick answer: Replacing the doors and drawer fronts on sound carcasses costs about $2,000–$6,000 in Auckland. New made-to-measure cabinetry runs about $15,000–$35,000 supplied and installed for most kitchens, up to $55,000+ at the high end, and flat-pack starts around $8,000. Use our kitchen cabinetry cost calculator for a ballpark before you book quotes.
You’ve got a number in your head for the new kitchen. Then the quotes land, and they’re nowhere near it — and worse, they’re nowhere near each other. One company says $18,000. The next says $34,000. Same kitchen, same floor plan. So what’s going on?
“Cabinetry” isn’t one thing. It’s the boxes, the doors, the drawer fronts, the hardware and the install, and every one of those moves the price. A straight run of base cabinets with plain melamine doors is a completely different animal to an L-shaped layout with full-height uppers, deep pot drawers and a pull-out pantry. Both get called “kitchen cabinetry.” They’re thousands of dollars apart.
Below you’ll find the 2026 Auckland price bands we publish across our guides, not vague “prices vary” hand-waving, and a calculator that turns those figures into a ballpark for your size kitchen. For the full breakdown of a whole kitchen (benchtops, appliances, the lot), we’ve put that in our dedicated guide on how much kitchen cabinets cost in NZ. Here, we’re staying focused on the cabinetry itself, new, or just the doors.
We’re Little Giant Interiors. We design, manufacture and install custom kitchens out of our own 700m² factory in Rosedale, on Auckland’s North Shore, using German laser edge-banding for the finish. That means the numbers below come from the bench, not a brochure.
→ Try the Kitchen Cabinetry Cost Calculator
What Kitchen Cabinetry Actually Costs in Auckland (2026)
Let’s start with the figure most people want: the cost of a full set of new cabinetry, supplied and installed, leaving benchtops and appliances out of it for now. For most Auckland family kitchens, made-to-measure cabinetry lands somewhere between $15,000 and $35,000, and the spread inside that range is almost entirely about materials, layout and hardware.
Here’s how the broad bands break down in 2026. They’re the same bands our full kitchen cabinet price guide uses, so the two pages never disagree.
| Cabinetry type | Typical Auckland range (supply + install, ex benchtop/appliances) | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Budget / flat-pack modular | $8,000 – $14,000 | Rentals, quick refreshes, simple straight runs |
| Mid-range custom | $15,000 – $24,000 | Most Auckland family homes: custom-sized cabinets, Melteca or moisture-resistant board, Blum or Hettich soft-close |
| Upper mid / premium | $25,000 – $35,000 | Full-height cabinets, painted or veneer finishes, drawer-heavy layouts, pantry systems |
| High-end | $35,000 – $55,000+ | Handleless profiles, premium veneer or lacquer, integrated appliance panels |
| Whole kitchen (cabinetry + benchtop + appliances) | See our full cost guide | Planning a complete renovation |
A quick word on why the gap between custom bands is so wide. The single biggest swing inside a custom quote is drawers versus doors. A drawer-heavy base run, which nearly every designer will push you towards because it’s far more usable, can add several thousand dollars over a door-and-shelf layout of the same length. You’re paying for the runners and the box work, not just the front. Once you’ve lived with deep pot drawers, though, you won’t go back to crouching into a dark cupboard.
Why two honest quotes can be $15,000 apart
This trips up a lot of people, so it’s worth being blunt about it. Two quotes for the same floor plan can differ by the price of a small car and both be completely legitimate. One might be 16mm melamine carcasses with basic hinges. The other, 18mm moisture-resistant board, soft-close BLUM drawer systems and a couple of clever corner mechanisms. Same look on paper. Different kitchen in real life, and a different lifespan.
That’s exactly the problem a calculator solves at the research stage, it gives you a defensible starting number so you can tell whether a quote is in the right postcode before you commit to anything.
💡 Design tip: Before you compare quotes, ask each company for their carcass board thickness and hinge brand. It’s the fastest way to see whether you’re comparing like with like, or being shown a cheaper build dressed up to look the same.
If your kitchen’s layout already works and the boxes are sound, a full rebuild is overkill. You might just need new fronts. That’s where most of the real savings live, so let’s talk about it.
Replacing Kitchen Cabinet Doors Only: the Budget Route
You often don’t need a whole new kitchen. If your carcasses are square and solid, replacing the doors only is the cheapest, fastest way to make a tired kitchen look new. Replacing kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts in NZ typically costs about $2,000 to $6,000, depending on how many fronts there are and the finish you choose.
Most kitchen cabinet carcasses are built to standard sizes, so new doors, drawer fronts and kickboards will usually fit the existing boxes. You keep the structure, swap the visible parts, and skip the demolition. The job’s also done in a fraction of the time, days rather than weeks, which matters if you’re trying to be sorted before Christmas or a house sale.
What door replacement costs, broken down
The finish of the door is what moves the number most. Supply-only, a replacement door runs from about $60 for melamine to $240 or more for timber veneer. Drawer fronts sit in a similar band. These are the per-door figures from our kitchen cabinet cost guide; fitting, hinges, kickboards and end panels are quoted on top, per job.
| Door finish | Approx. cost per door (supply only) | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Melamine (Melteca) | $60 – $110 | NZ-made, hard-wearing, the budget-to-mid choice |
| Thermoform / vinyl wrap (Dezignatek) | $90 – $140 | Seamless face and edges, routed profiles such as Shaker |
| Polyurethane (2-pot lacquer) | $140 – $200+ | Smooth painted finish in matte or gloss |
| Timber veneer | $160 – $240+ | Real grain; edges have to match the face |
A kitchen with 15 doors and 8 drawer fronts in melamine is 23 fronts, which is roughly $1,400 to $2,500 of fronts before anyone picks up a drill. That arithmetic is why most door-only jobs land in the $2,000–$6,000 band once fitting and the small parts are added, and why a veneer or painted refresh on a big kitchen pushes past it.
Replacement kitchen cupboard doors: what the quote should cover
A door-only quote is only comparable to another one if both cover the same parts. Check for these:
- Doors and drawer fronts made to your existing openings. Each front is measured off your carcasses, not picked from a size chart. Ask whether the price assumes your current door sizes or a re-planned layout.
- Hinges. Old hinges are often the reason doors sag, and new fronts need hinge holes drilled to suit. A quote that names the hinge (Blum, Hettich) tells you what you’re getting; Blum tests its hinge systems up to 200,000 opening movements, according to Blum New Zealand’s warranty statement.
- Drawer runners. New drawer fronts usually mount onto the existing runners. If a drawer already drags or won’t close, a new front won’t fix it, so ask whether runners are included or excluded.
- Kickboards, end panels and fillers in the matching finish, or the old ones will give the job away.
- Handles, or a handleless profile. Swapping to a J-pull or push-to-open front changes the hardware as well as the door; our handleless kitchen guide explains the three ways it’s done.
- Removal and disposal of the old fronts.
Before you ask for prices, count your doors and drawer fronts and group them by size, note any glass or open shelving, and look inside the sink cupboard. That last check matters more than the rest put together.
One honest caveat: door replacement only works if the carcasses underneath are in good shape. If the boxes have swollen at the base from a slow leak under the sink, the hinge plates have stripped, or the layout itself is the problem, you’re better off putting that money towards a proper rebuild. We’ll always tell you which camp you’re in at the consultation rather than sell you fronts that’ll sit on failing boxes. If the boxes are past saving and the budget is tight, look at the affordable kitchens we make to measure in Rosedale before you assume flat-pack is the only option.
💡 Design tip: If you’re refreshing doors to sell, spend on the fronts people touch and see first, the run facing the living area and the island. A full-replacement look on a part-replacement budget comes down to where you put the money, not how much of it there is.
Whichever route you’re leaning towards, the style of door you pick changes both the look and the number. So here’s the run-through.
Cabinet Door Styles and What Each One Costs
Door style is where personal taste meets the budget. The style you choose affects the price as much as the material does, some are simple flat panels, others are built up from multiple pieces, and that labour shows up in the quote. Here are the styles we get asked for most in Auckland kitchens.
Shaker
Five pieces: a four-piece frame around a recessed centre panel. It’s one of the door styles we’re asked for most, because it suits villas and new builds alike and comes in any colour. Mid-range on cost, timeless in look. If you can’t decide, this is the safe one. Before you price one, read our shaker kitchen guide for how the doors are made.
Louvered
Horizontal timber slats, the same detailing you see on shutters. It adds real character but carries a hefty price tag, the slat work is labour-intensive. A statement choice rather than a budget one.
Flat-panel (slab)
A single clean panel, no frame, no detail. It’s the most budget-friendly style and the backbone of modern handleless kitchens. Hard lines, minimalist, and it lets a bold colour or woodgrain do the talking. A natural fit for apartments and new builds.
Inset
The door sits flush inside the cabinet frame rather than over it. Beautiful and precise, and pricier, because every door has to be built and fitted to tight tolerances. This is where accurate machining earns its keep; the margins are unforgiving.
Distressed
Doors deliberately aged, softened corners, a worn finish, for a farmhouse or antique look. Available in most door profiles. A niche pick that suits character homes in Devonport or Titirangi more than a city apartment.
Beadboard
Vertical planks with ridges (the “beads”) running between them, more texture than a flat door. Cost depends heavily on material; smaller pieces sit at the lower end, larger built-up doors climb quickly.
Thermoform (thermofoil)
A moisture-resistant board core with a vinyl skin heat-formed over the face and edges, so there’s no joint on the front. Dezignatek’s technical data sheet describes its doors as vinyl over HDF MR board. Affordable, durable and easy to wipe down, which is why it’s a regular in family kitchens. Comes in solid colours and woodgrain looks. In NZ, Dezignatek thermoform doors are a common pick here.
High-gloss acrylic
A bold, mirror-smooth, moisture-resistant finish that wipes clean in a second — great with young kids. It sits at the upper end on cost because of the material, and it shows fingerprints, so it’s not for everyone.
💡 Design tip: Two-tone kitchens, a different colour or finish on the island to the perimeter, let you spend on a premium door where it counts and a plainer one everywhere else. It’s one of the easiest ways to lift the look without lifting the whole budget.
What Actually Drives Your Cabinetry Price
Style aside, four things move a cabinetry quote more than anything else. Understanding them is the difference between knowing why your quote says what it says, and just hoping it’s fair.
Materials and finish
The board and finish you choose set the floor for everything. Melamine-faced board like Melteca is the workhorse, durable, cost-effective, and it handles Auckland’s humidity well when the edges are properly sealed. Laminex laminates broaden the colour and texture range. Step up to polyurethane-painted doors or solid timber and the price climbs, but so does the finish quality and the lifespan.
On longevity, here’s what we see across the kitchens we’ve built and serviced around Auckland: moisture-resistant melamine outlasts unsealed budget board by a wide margin, polyurethane-painted doors longer again, and solid timber the longest of all if you maintain it. Unsealed budget board is the one that lets you down early, especially anywhere near steam or a coastal salt-air section.
“The cabinets that come back to bite people aren’t the expensive ones, they’re the unsealed budget boards that swell the first humid winter. In Auckland’s climate, moisture-resistant board and properly sealed edges aren’t an upgrade. They’re the baseline.”
, the Little Giant Interiors design team
Hardware
Hinges, runners and clever mechanisms are invisible until you use them every day. We build with BLUM drawer systems as standard and Häfele across the broader hardware range: hinges, storage fittings and lighting. Blum tests its box and runner systems up to 100,000 opening movements and its hinges up to 200,000, against a kitchen lifetime it puts at about 20 years. That’s the Blum NZ warranty statement, and it’s why hardware is a one-time spend on something you’ll touch thousands of times a year. It’s also where cheap kitchens quietly cut corners.
Run length and layout
More metres of cabinetry, more cost, straightforward enough. Full-height uppers, an island, a butler’s pantry or scullery all add boxes and fronts. Drawers cost more than doors. A galley in a Mt Eden bungalow and an open-plan island kitchen in an Albany new build are different projects with different totals, even at the same quality level.
What’s not in the cabinetry price
Cabinetry quotes don’t usually include benchtops, appliances, splashbacks or trade work for plumbing and electrical. Swapping cabinetry, benchtop and appliances in the same positions is the simplest kind of kitchen job to get through council. Moving the sink, dishwasher or drainage, or taking out a wall, is a different conversation: Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists the work that doesn’t need consent, and whether your change fits it depends on the detail. MBIE’s building.govt.nz explains the exemptions; a Licensed Building Practitioner or Auckland Council can confirm your specific job before the design is locked in.
Across the wider market, building costs are moving again. Cotality’s Cordell Construction Cost Index shows New Zealand residential construction costs rose 1.7% in the September 2026 quarter, the fastest quarterly rise since late 2022, taking annual growth to 4.8%, above the long-term average of 4.0%. Cotality points to higher material, freight and fuel costs. In plain terms: waiting for prices to fall is not a plan, and a fixed-price quote is worth more when costs are climbing.
💡 Design tip: If colour’s holding you up, that’s the easiest part to get right, our guide to choosing kitchen colours walks through what works in NZ light before you lock anything in.
What a Cabinet Maker Charges: How Made-to-Order Pricing Works
Two cabinet makers can quote the same kitchen and land thousands apart without either of them being dishonest. The gap usually comes down to how they price, not what they build. Once you know the three pricing models in use around Auckland, quotes stop looking random.
The three ways cabinetry gets priced
Per cabinet. Each box is a line item, priced by size and what goes inside it. Easy to read, easy to compare, and it makes the drawer-versus-shelf decision visible: a bank of pot drawers costs noticeably more than a cupboard with one shelf behind a door, because it is more hardware and more machining.
Per linear metre. A rate is applied to the total run of cabinetry along the wall. Quick to produce, and useful for a rough comparison, but it flattens detail. A metre of plain base units and a metre of full-height pantry with internal drawers are not the same metre, so a linear-metre rate on a complicated kitchen almost always moves once someone measures properly.
Fixed price for the job. One number covering design, manufacture, hardware and installation. It takes longer to produce because the design has to be resolved first, and it is the only model where the figure you sign is the figure you pay. That is the model we work to, after the on-site measure and the 3D design are done.
💡 Design tip: When you ask for a quote, ask which model it is built on. A per-linear-metre estimate and a fixed-price contract are different promises, and comparing one against the other is how people end up feeling misled later.
What kitchen cabinetry installation costs, and what it covers
Installation is its own line and it is worth reading closely. On a door-only swap it starts from around $600+GST for a regular-sized kitchen and scales with the number of fronts. On a full cabinetry install it is a bigger job than most people picture: removing the old kitchen, checking floors and walls for level and plumb, scribing cabinets to walls that are rarely straight in an Auckland villa, fixing into studs, hanging and adjusting every door and drawer, fitting kickboards and end panels, and taking the old kitchen away.
Ask what happens to the parts a cabinet maker does not do. Plumbing disconnection and reconnection, electrical work, tiling, gib repairs and flooring usually sit with separate trades. On our projects the electrical workmanship carries a 12-month warranty and the installation itself carries a 5-year warranty, so you can see exactly where one trade’s responsibility ends and the next begins.
Made-to-order versus off-the-shelf: where the money goes
Made-to-order cabinetry is not simply a more expensive version of a modular box. You are paying for cabinets cut to your actual dimensions rather than to a 150mm size increment, which is why made-to-measure work wins in the awkward spaces: the 640mm gap beside a fridge, the sloping ceiling in a villa lean-to, the corner that a standard unit turns into dead space.
The trade-off is time. Modular runs on stock, so it can be on site in days. Made-to-order runs on a manufacturing slot, so it runs to a programme. If you are weighing the two properly, our comparison of modular versus custom kitchens in NZ lays out where each one genuinely wins, and if you want to understand what you’re choosing between on the fronts themselves, our guide to kitchen cabinet door materials compares them on wear and warranty. And if you want to see what actually happens between order and delivery, we have documented how custom kitchen cabinets are made in our Rosedale factory.
How to compare two cabinet-maker quotes properly
Print both and check these seven lines before you look at the totals:
- Carcass material and thickness — 18mm moisture-resistant board is the sane baseline for a kitchen; thinner board in a wet room is a false economy.
- Edge treatment: laser-applied edging has no glue line to lift; standard hot-melt edging is cheaper and eventually shows.
- Drawer system by name: a quote that says “soft close” without naming the runner is not comparable to one that specifies BLUM. The hardware is a large share of the cost.
- Drawer count versus door count: the single biggest swing in a cabinetry quote, and the easiest one to miss.
- Who installs: the manufacturer’s own team, or a subcontractor priced separately.
- What is excluded: benchtop, sink, tapware, appliances, splashback, plumbing, electrical, flooring.
- Warranty, in writing: see the next line for what that should look like.
The warranty line most people skip
Warranty is where a cheap quote gets expensive later, and it is the easiest thing in the world to check before you sign. Ours is published rather than promised: 10 years on Laminex, 10 years on Melteca and PrimePanels laminates, 10 years on Dezignatek doors, 10 years on Bestwood, 10 years on Caesarstone, lifetime cover on BLUM and Hettich hardware and Blanco sinks, 5 years on the installation itself and 12 months on electrical workmanship.
One detail worth knowing if you are renovating with a sale in mind: our guarantee transfers to the new owners if you sell the house. Most cabinetry warranties stop at the person who paid the invoice. You can read the full schedule on our guarantee page and check any quote you are holding against it. If you’re holding two or three already, our guide to comparing kitchen quotes line by line goes further than the seven checks above.
How to Use Our Kitchen Cabinetry Cost Calculator
Numbers on a page only get you so far. Our kitchen cabinetry cost calculator turns these ranges into a ballpark for your actual kitchen size — in about a minute, with no consultation required. It’s built for the research stage: a quick, honest figure you can use to sanity-check quotes and set a realistic budget before you talk to anyone.
Be clear on what it is and isn’t. The calculator works off averages and assumes a fairly standard kitchen, so it’s a starting point for planning, not a fixed quote. The moment your project has anything specific about it — an awkward corner, a scullery, premium hardware, a layout change, the only way to get an accurate, fixed-price number is an on-site measure and design.
→ Open the Kitchen Cabinetry Cost Calculator
From a ballpark to a real number
When you’re ready to firm it up, that’s where we come in. Every Little Giant Interiors project starts with a free in-home consultation and a complimentary 3D design render, so you can see the kitchen before you commit a cent to building it. From there it’s our design and build process — consultation, estimate, custom design, manufacturing in our Rosedale factory, installation, handover, on a fixed-price contract, so the figure we agree is the figure you pay.
That’s the part a calculator can’t do: look at your actual space, your boxes, your light, and tell you honestly whether you need a full new kitchen made to measure in our own factory or just a smart door swap. Either way, you’ll know where you stand.
Ready to Get a Real Number on Your Kitchen?
Start with the calculator for a ballpark, then let’s turn it into something you can build to. No pressure, no hard sell — just an honest look at your space and a fixed-price estimate.
➡ Book your free in-home design consultation with Little Giant Interiors
➡ Use the kitchen cabinetry cost calculator
➡ Learn more about our custom kitchen renovations in Auckland
How much does it cost to replace kitchen cabinet doors only in NZ?
Replacing kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts only in NZ typically costs about $2,000 to $6,000, depending on how many fronts there are and the finish. Supply-only, a door runs from about $60 in melamine to $240 or more in timber veneer, with fitting, hinges and kickboards quoted on top. It only works if your existing carcasses are square, dry and sound.
How much is a basic kitchen cabinet replacement?
A basic door-and-front replacement usually costs between $2,000 and $6,000. It's a budget-friendly first choice for a makeover because you keep the existing boxes and swap the doors, drawer fronts, handles and kickboards. The final figure depends on your kitchen size and the materials and style you choose, so treat this as an estimate rather than a quote.
How much should I budget for new kitchen cabinetry in Auckland?
For new made-to-measure cabinetry in Auckland in 2026, budget roughly $15,000 to $35,000 supplied and installed for most kitchens, excluding benchtops and appliances, and $35,000 to $55,000+ for high-end work. Flat-pack modular starts lower, around $8,000 to $14,000. Most family homes land in the $15,000 to $24,000 mid-range band. Drawers, full-height uppers, islands and premium hardware push the figure up. For a whole-kitchen breakdown including benchtops and appliances, see our kitchen cabinet cost guide.
What is the most popular kitchen cabinet door style?
Shaker is one of the most requested kitchen cabinet door styles in NZ. It's a five-piece door, a four-piece frame around a recessed centre panel, and it suits both character villas and modern new builds. It comes in any colour, sits mid-range on cost, and works with traditional or contemporary kitchens, which is why it's the safe choice when you can't decide.
Is it cheaper to replace cabinet doors or get a whole new kitchen?
Replacing the doors only is far cheaper, about $2,000 to $6,000 against $15,000 to $35,000 for most new made-to-measure cabinetry, and it's done in days rather than weeks. It's the right call when your layout works and the carcasses are sound. A whole new kitchen makes more sense when the boxes have swollen or failed, or when the layout itself is the problem. A consultation will tell you which camp you're in.
How accurate is a kitchen cabinetry cost calculator?
A kitchen cabinetry cost calculator gives a quick ballpark based on averages and a standard kitchen, so it's accurate enough for research and budgeting but not a fixed quote. Anything specific about your project — an awkward corner, a scullery, premium hardware or a layout change, shifts the number. For an accurate, fixed-price figure you need an on-site measure and design. Use the calculator to sanity-check quotes before you commit.
Do I need building consent to replace kitchen cabinets in Auckland?
A like-for-like replacement, with cabinetry, benchtop and appliances in the same positions, is the simplest case. Moving the sink, dishwasher or drainage, or removing a wall, may need consent depending on the detail; Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists exempt work, and building.govt.nz explains it. Ask a Licensed Building Practitioner or Auckland Council to confirm before the design is locked in. Exempt work must still meet the Building Code.
How long does a custom kitchen take from design to install?
With us, the estimate and a preliminary 3D design come back within 1 to 2 days of the in-home consultation. Once you've signed off the final design and materials, the kitchen is made in our Rosedale factory, and installing the cabinetry itself takes 1 to 2 days on site. Benchtops and splashbacks are templated after the cabinets go in and fitted around 10 days later. Ask for a start date at the estimate stage if you're working to a deadline. Door-only replacements are far quicker.
Which cabinet material handles Auckland's humidity best?
Moisture-resistant melamine and polyurethane-painted finishes handle Auckland's humid, often coastal conditions best, especially with properly sealed edges. Moisture-resistant melamine and polyurethane-painted finishes both outlast unsealed budget board, which can swell early near steam or salt air. What decides the lifespan is the edge: a sealed, properly banded edge keeps water out of the core, and that is where cheap cabinetry fails first.
What does a Little Giant Interiors kitchen quote include?
Every Little Giant Interiors project starts with a free in-home consultation and a complimentary 3D design render, so you can see the kitchen before committing. We then work through our design and build process — consultation, estimate, custom design, manufacturing in our Rosedale factory, installation and handover, on a fixed-price contract. That means the figure we agree is the figure you pay, with no surprise variations once the design is locked in.
How much does it cost to replace kitchen cabinets in Auckland?
Replacing the cabinetry alone in an Auckland kitchen generally runs $15,000 to $35,000 supplied and installed for most made-to-measure work, up to $55,000+ at the high end, or roughly $8,000 to $14,000 for flat-pack modular. If the carcasses are sound and only the fronts are tired, a door-only replacement lands at about $2,000 to $6,000 instead. The deciding factor is the condition of the boxes, not the age of the kitchen, so it is worth having someone look before you budget for a full rebuild.
How much do cabinet makers charge in Auckland?
Cabinet makers price in one of three ways: per cabinet, per linear metre of run, or as a fixed price for the whole job. Per-linear-metre rates are the quickest to produce and the least reliable, because a metre of plain base units and a metre of full-height pantry are not the same work. A fixed price takes longer because the design has to be resolved first, but it is the only version where the number you sign is the number you pay.
Can I get kitchen cabinets made to measure rather than buying standard sizes?
Yes, and it is the main reason people choose a cabinet maker over a modular range. Made-to-measure cabinetry is cut to your actual dimensions rather than to fixed size increments, so it suits the 640mm gap beside a fridge, a villa lean-to with a sloping ceiling, or a corner that a standard unit would turn into dead space. The trade-off is lead time: modular runs on stock, made-to-measure runs on a manufacturing slot.
Do replacement kitchen cabinet doors fit my existing cabinets?
Usually, yes. Replacement doors and drawer fronts are made to the openings of your existing carcasses, so the boxes stay where they are. What decides whether it is worth doing is the condition of those boxes: a swollen base under the sink, stripped hinge plates or a drawer that already drags will not be fixed by a new front. Ask whether new hinges are included, because new fronts need hinge holes drilled to suit, and check whether the drawer runners are being replaced or reused.
Have you been putting off your kitchen renovation?
We offer flexible finance options to help you get your dream kitchen sooner. Learn more about our interest-free finance options.
References
- Cotality: NZ home-building costs rise at fastest pace since 2022 (Cordell Construction Cost Index, September 2026 quarter, published 08 Oct 2026)
- Blum New Zealand: Warranty and Maintenance Statement (testing cycles, kitchen lifetime, electronics warranty)
- Dezignatek: Technical Data Sheet, November 2024
- Little Giant Interiors guarantee schedule
- MBIE Building Performance (building.govt.nz), building consent exemptions (Schedule 1 guidance)
- Auckland Council, Making changes to an existing building (consent requirements)
